The Irish Club’s Irish Stew

When I was a child I remember eating a distinctly nasty Irish stew: watery, greasy and singularly unvoluptuous. I haven’t been particularly won round by eating it in Ireland, either. But I recently had a bowlful at the Irish Club in Eaton Square, and it was velvety in its unctuousness, the meat and its gravy both infused with that sweet, tender viscosity. I don’t think I have ever been so bowled over by something I’ve ordered. Actually, I didn’t order it, or not initially. I had played safe