Lacquered Quail

Food that is fiddly, or takes time – artichokes, winkles – is worth considering when you’re trying to eat less. It’s a variation of the old trick of eating off smaller plates, but piled high, so that you’re conned, somehow, into thinking you’re eating more.

The lacquer effect is brought about by brushing with pomegranate molasses (which you can get in Middle-Eastern stores and quite a few supermarkets now) mixed with soy sauce, much the same way as the Chinese use maltose to help al