Baked Sea Trout

One early summer, I got by on a single dinner party menu again and again: pistachios, olives, radishes and slices of smoked Spanish sausage with drinks; cold asparagus with olive oil and lemon juice; warm sea trout with cucumber sauce – the recipe is given below – and Jersey Royal new potatoes; lightly dressed salad leaves with toasted pine kernels as a separate course; an enormous cheese board; a vast dish piled high with one or two kinds of fine rare fruit (sometimes loquats and physalis,