Marinated Kippers

Some dishes are delicious in a big, straightforward, gutsy sort of a way that becomes dangerously addictive. Take the salutary tale of my American friend, Sandra Razelos and these marinated kippers. Sandra, formerly a hosiery heiress, came to London in the mid-sixties via Puerto Rico, Athens and two marriages, with a palate tuned to the better things in life. After falling prey to this edible equivalent of absinthe, at that time the staple of bohemian bistro circles, she lost all her money