Classic Béarnaise

While delicate hollandaise is glorious with warm artichoke hearts, plainly-cooked white and flat fish, steamed crab, lobster and other crustacea, chicken, poached eggs and dribbled on to broccoli, its gutsy big brother – sauce béarnaise – is the essential lubrication for grilled or barbecued steaks, poultry and fish. As there is more water base, proper béarnaise is easier to make than hand-made hollandaise.

Perhaps a little neglected during the decade of nouvelle cuisine,