By Jeremy Round
Colin au four chambré would be a camper name for this indisputably butch, Greek summer fish dish with its messy sauce. It works with almost any white fish – cod, haddock, halibut and so on – and has a satisfying internal logic to its preparation: each ingredient is chopped up as the last one cooks.
Heat oil over medium flame in heavy saucepan. Chop onion finely, then fry until just beginning to colour at edges. Finely dice carrot, then stir into the pot. Finely dice potato, then stir into the onion and carrot. Finely dice fennel, then stir into the other vegetables. Add garlic.
Stir over the flame until the contents of the pan begin to stick and colour. Stir in the tomato purée, w