This recipe was given to me by Chef Baharuddin, a Padang man and the head chef at the Hotel Pusako in Bukittinggi. Bukittinggi is a hill resort, 1,000 metres above sea level and too far away from the coast for a live lobster to go, so the dish is not on his menu. But he created it when he was a chef in Balikpapan, the big and brash oil town in East Kalimantan. Some distance upriver is the pleasant little town of Tenggarong, once the capital of the local kingdom. Why the lob