Kidneys and Kumquats

I have a dear friend, Paula Frosch, who, upon hearing that I was having trouble getting kidneys to test recipes with, provided me a supply of kidneys through a friend who is a farmer-cum-butcher in Massachusetts. They turned out to be pork kidneys, which I had never cooked. The flavor and texture are much the same as those of lamb kidneys, but different from veal kidneys.

The kidneys varied greatly in size, from small ones that obviously came from suckling pigs to l