Magical Green Tomatoes

The triumphs of tomatoes are usually tenderness and perfume. Mostly they are bright red, although there are now heirloom varieties that are green when ripe, striped, red-brown, and various shades of yellow—to name only a few. True green ones are usually eaten raw unless they are fried coated in cornmeal as in the American South. This recipe breaks all the rules, which seems to be a specialty of mine. The assuredly unripe tomatoes are cooked into a savory side vegetable. This is definitely n