Roe Sauce

Any mayo requires good olive oil, salt, and some acid— lemon, vinegar, lime. It also requires eggs. The usual ones are hen eggs, although fish eggs are used here. All the ingredients need to be at room temperature and good quality.

My first mayonnaise experiment—very good too—was in Aspen at the house of a fabulous fisher. She had returned from a high-mountain trip, where it was legal to keep your trout catch. I volunteered to be the cook. First I had to clean the fish. As I cleaned