Vitti Gabrielli and her husband have spent a great deal of time and effort restoring an old mountain cottage in the tiny village of Vattaro, near Trento, as their holiday retreat It was here that we went to spend the day with them and several friends to eat mountains of steaming polenta with a deliciously rich sauce of wild woodland mushrooms. Gathering mushrooms is a local obsession. Everyone does it, either for pleasure or profit, and the baskets of bounty are then taken