The authentic Genoese recipe for this cannot be made without using the testicles of a young calf, but I have chosen the more prudish version, as made in Sanremo! The secret of the dish is that it should be colourful and bursting with lots of different flavours and textures. In some households the finished veal roll is cooled, sliced and fried, but I prefer it cold in thick slices. The dish needs to be cooked a day in advance and is quite complicated, so save it for very special Sunday lunches in summertime. It is quite a nice touch to serve with it salads made of the same vegetables that are in the stuffing – carrots, lettuce, celery and pine kernels. A couple of days before you intend making the dish, explain to your butcher the cut of veal you require and he/she should be able to prepare it for you.
Pour the water into a very deep saucepan, add the onion, the raw carrot, celery, parsley and garlic and bring to a gentle boil. This is the stock in which the meat will cook.
Meanwhile, make sure that the veal forms a sack which you can easily fill with the stuffing ingredients. The cut should be at the point of the breast so that it is pocket-shaped and needs only to be split open on the end where the butcher cut it for you. Wash and dry the meat.
Mix together the breadcrumbs, Parmesan, shredded lettuce, boiled carrot and pine kernels and season with salt and pepper. Spoon this mixture into the pocket in the meat and pack it down quite tightly. Sew up the open end of the breast with white cook’s string. Lower the stuffed meat carefully into the boiling stock, cover and boil gently for 2 hours. Drain and leave to cool completely overnight.
Slice before serving.
Coat the slices of stuffed veal in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in olive oil until golden.
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