From the little town of Amatrice, in Lazio, comes this classic sauce. It has many fans, and is one of those recipes that cause a great deal of argument and discussion among aficionados: Should the bacon be pancetta or guanciale? Is it right to use both onion and garlic? Should it not be one or the other? How much chilli, and what kind of chilli, makes this sauce just right? There are no clear answers to these questions, and the sauce remains one of those that can be tinkered with until it is exactly as you like it.
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