Storione al forno

Years ago, the Po River teemed with sturgeon. It was their spawning ground. Overfishing has done its damage, but sturgeon, a dense and fine-fleshed fish, is still greatly prized in Emilia-Romagna, especially in the mosaic-rich city of Ravenna. In this recipe, the fillet is typically studded with strips of lardo. Pancetta is a good alternative to the lardo, as it adds a nice hit of salt and some meaty flavor to the already-meaty fish. If