• 3 pounds boneless beef chuck or brisket, cut into 2-inch cubes
• 1 tablespoon sweet paprika or pimentón dulce, salt, and ¼ cup olive oil for marinating (optional)
• About ½ cup olive oil
• ½ pound pancetta, sliced ¼ inch thick and slices cut into ¼-inch-wide strips
• 3 large yellow onions, chopped (4 to 5 cups)
• 2 tablespoons sweet paprika or pimentón dulce, or to taste
• ¼ to ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper or pimentón picante, or to taste
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 2 tablespoons minced garlic
• 1 cup dry red wine
• 2 cups seeded, chopped canned plum tomatoes with juice
• 1 each fresh rosemary and marjoram sprig and 1 bay leaf, tied in a cheesecloth sachet
• Grated zest of 1 lemon
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

If you have the time and foresight, rub the meat with the paprika, about 2 teaspoons salt, and the olive oil, cover, and marinate overnight in the refrigerator or at room temperature for 2 hours.

Place a large sauté pan over medium heat and film the bottom with a little of the ½ cup of olive oil. Add the pancetta and let it render its fat until it is half-cooked, about 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a plate.

Raise the heat to high and, working in batches, brown the beef cubes on all sides in the fat remaining in the pan, adding olive oil as needed. Each batch should take 8 to 10 minutes. As each batch is ready, transfer it a Dutch oven. Reduce the heat to medium, add the onions, and sauté, adding more oil as needed, until softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in the paprika, cayenne, cumin, and garlic and cook for 5 minutes longer to blend the flavors.

Add the seasoned onions to the beef along with the pancetta, wine, tomatoes and their juice, herb sachet, and lemon zest, place over medium heat, and stir well to combine. Bring to a gentle boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the beef is tender. This may take as long as 3 hours.

Discard the herb sachet. Season the stew to taste with salt and black pepper and more paprika or cayenne, if desired, then serve.