Gulyas alla triestina

Beef Stew with Sweet and Hot Paprika from Trieste

Trieste is next door to Slovenia and Croatia and near the Austro-Hungarian border, good reasons why this stew is reminiscent of a fine Hungarian goulash. The big seasoning decision for me is whether to use Hungarian paprika, or, for a smoky overtone, the Spanish piment贸n de La Vera. I have made this both ways, and I lean toward the piment贸n, but you may decide you prefer the more authentic paprika. Similar recipes from the Trentino add cumin or caraway to the sauce and grated lemon zest. While traditionally served with boiled potatoes, I like to serve the gulyas with homemade pappardelle.

Ingredients

  • 3 pounds boneless beef chuck or brisket, cut into 2-inch cubes
  • 1 tablespoon sweet paprika or piment贸n dulce, salt, and cup olive oil for marinating (optional)
  • About cup olive oil
  • pound pancetta, sliced inch thick and slices cut into -inch-wide strips
  • 3 large yellow onions, chopped (4 to 5 cups)
  • 2 tablespoons sweet paprika or piment贸n dulce, or to taste
  • 录 to 陆 teaspoon cayenne pepper or piment贸n picante, or to taste
  • 2 teaspoons ground cumin
  • 2 tablespoons minced garlic
  • 1 cup dry red wine
  • 2 cups seeded, chopped canned plum tomatoes with juice
  • 1 each fresh rosemary and marjoram sprig and 1 bay leaf, tied in a cheesecloth sachet
  • Grated zest of 1 lemon
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

If you have the time and foresight, rub the meat with the paprika, about 2 teaspoons salt, and the olive oil, cover, and marinate overnight in the refrigerator or at room temperature for 2 hours.

Place a large saut茅 pan over medium heat and film the bottom with a little of the cup of olive oil. Add the pancetta and let it render its fat until it is half-cooked, about 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a plate.

Raise the heat to high and, working in batches, brown the beef cubes on all sides in the fat remaining in the pan, adding olive oil as needed. Each batch should take 8 to 10 minutes. As each batch is ready, transfer it a Dutch oven. Reduce the heat to medium, add the onions, and saut茅, adding more oil as needed, until softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in the paprika, cayenne, cumin, and garlic and cook for 5 minutes longer to blend the flavors.

Add the seasoned onions to the beef along with the pancetta, wine, tomatoes and their juice, herb sachet, and lemon zest, place over medium heat, and stir well to combine. Bring to a gentle boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the beef is tender. This may take as long as 3 hours.

Discard the herb sachet. Season the stew to taste with salt and black pepper and more paprika or cayenne, if desired, then serve.

Wine

From Friuli, try a Merlot or Refosco from Dorigo, Scarbolo, or Venica & Venica. If they are impossible to find, switch to a California Syrah or a California Rh么ne blend.