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Published 2004
Many great dishes have evolved from using lesser cuts of meat, and coda alia vaccinara is a jewel of Roman cooking. It is an example of the cuisine of the quinto quarto, the “fifth quarter,” the parts of the animal—heart, spleen, liver, tongue, sweetbreads, brains, intestines, tails— never sold to the rich. I first ate this dish at Ristorante Checchino dal 1887 in Testaccio, a neighborhood known for its slaughterhouses and vaccinari, the latter Roman dialect for “butche
