Coda alla vaccinara

Oxtail Ragout with Celery

Preparation info
  • Serves

    6

    • Difficulty

      Medium

Appears in
Italian Slow and Savory

By Joyce Goldstein

Published 2004

  • About

Many great dishes have evolved from using lesser cuts of meat, and coda alia vaccinara is a jewel of Roman cooking. It is an example of the cuisine of the quinto quarto, the “fifth quarter,” the parts of the animal—heart, spleen, liver, tongue, sweetbreads, brains, intestines, tails— never sold to the rich. I first ate this dish at Ristorante Checchino dal 1887 in Testaccio, a neighborhood known for its slaughterhouses and vaccinari, the latter Roman dialect for “butche