There are many versions of this sauce. I have written about some of them in my earlier books but over the years my taste has evolved. My love for
funghi has encouraged me to experiment with many kinds and I believe I have been fortunate enough to sample some of the most interesting varieties. Because the wild season is short, you may be obliged to use cultivated mushrooms, although these do not give the same depth of taste. Remember, you should always consult a reliable