Gulls’ Eggs with Celery Salt

It may seem odd to find a recipe for boiling eggs in a modern cookery book - or rather, a recipe for serving ready-boiled eggs, since gulls’ eggs generally come cooked. However, Jeremy was insistent that this starter be included. It is, he says, evocative of the Ivy. It’s British, it’s seasonal, it’s from the quadrant of the menu that is stoutly traditional but it helps the guest eat in a relaxed way. He says that whenever you can get the customers to