French-Style Scrambled Eggs

The French method of scrambling eggs is called oeufs brouillés or a brouillade. No other way of scrambling eggs achieves as superb a texture and flavor. The eggs are cooked slowly over hot water and incorporated with a good deal of butter and a little fresh cream, giving them an ethereal texture and flavor quite unlike the rubber-mat, dry “egginess” of short-order scrambled eggs.

Black-truffled scrambled eggs, first served to me by