Cream of Boletus Soup

This is not as spiritually extravagant as the puree of fresh black truffle soup at L’Arpege, Alain Passard’s great Parisian restaurant—but then what could be? However, it’s close.

It is from my beloved Edouard de Pomiane, in this case his Le Carnet d’Anna from 1938.


  • 4 ounces dried boletus, cèpes, or porcini
  • 6 cups chicken stock
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • ¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
  • Saltand freshly ground white pepper


Put the dried mushrooms in a pot with the stock. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the mushrooms are very tender.

Strain and reserve the liquid. Rinse out the pot in case there is any sand in the bottom. Cut the bottom of the stems off the mushrooms in case they are sandy.

Use a ladle to decant the mushroom stock into another container, leaving the sand behind in the bottom of the first container.

Puree the mushrooms in a food processor with the decanted stock until completely smooth, and put the puree back in the pot. Add the cream and simmer for 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve, passing the Parmesan separately.