Cannelloni with Salt Cod and Fresh Tomato Sauce

I don’t know why one never sees cannelloni anymore. Probably they are considered too old-fashioned, and in the past always received a thick béchamel or white sauce, plus a little mediocre cheese and tomato paste. But when cannelloni are cooked properly, they can be one of the finest, subtlest, and most ethereal of all pastas.

This recipe can be made a few hours in advance of the final coo