This idea came to me at the wonderful restaurant at the entrance to the harbor of St. Tropez where, because everyone there was a foodie and the tuna was delicious, we sat around for hours embroiled in the debate over tuna names. Since the names for tuna (especially the one known as albacore) change from country to country, I will not get into that debate here, but stick to my belief that the only good cooked tuna is either in a can or, in this case, a jar.
Grind up the peppercorns and salt and rub all over the tuna pieces. Let sit 30 minutes.
Put an anchovy fillet in the bottom of each jar. Then divide half the thyme, sage, parsley, rosemary, bay, and garlic equally among the four jars. Place
Close the jars and put them in a water bath with the water coming up to the necks of the jars. Cover and simmer very gently for 2 hours. Test to see if the fish is tender (timing will depend on the kind of fish you are using) and cook more if necessary. For salmon cook only 30 minutes.
Serve at room temperature with a sauce made from extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice, or with Russian dressing, or rémoulade. The tuna makes a perfect Niçoise salad—make sure to use the cooking oil to dress it.
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