The dish made famous by the greatest and most modest of masters, Alexandre Dumaine of the Côte d’Or in Saulieu, was one that people like the Aga Khan, Orson Welles, and Grace Kelly would travel far to enjoy, defining the Michelin term “worth the journey.” Dumaine’s dish was a whole capon, or sometimes a poularde, but always “a chicken which has been reared and fed in an exemplary manner for most of i