The most dramatic difference between hand- and machine-made mayonnaise can be tasted when you make garlic mayonnaise in a mortar and pestle (not the smooth chemist’s variety but one of semi-rough marble) rather than in a machine. The texture is like velvet, the flavors are subtle, and the result is by far the most digestible.
Work the garlic, egg yolks, breadcrumbs, salt, and a little stock to a paste in a mortar or food processor. When the paste is smooth, start adding the oil slowly, working it all the time. Add as much oil as the sauce will take without breaking; then add stock to thin it so that it will just pour off a spoon.
For saucing cold poached red snapper and other white non-oily fish, add sea urchin puree and the result is transcendental. Crayfish garlic mayonnaise is not bad; use the cooked shells pounded in the mortar in which you make the mayonnaise, and then sieve out. Put the cooked shelled, crayfish tails in the sauce and garnish with chopped hard-cooked egg and chive flowers. Or for smoked-chili garlic mayonnaise, to a cup of garlic mayonnaise add
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