The secret to holding a cold sabayon sauce so that it does not collapse and separate is to whisk it in a bowl sitting in ice and water without stopping until it is quite cold. After that it will hold in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to four days.
Have a bowl (big enough to contain the bowl of sabayon) filled with ice and water next to the stove.
Combine the yolks, sugar, and salt in a stainless-steel mixing bowl. Whisk together for 2 minutes and then add the champagne.
Put the bowl over simmering water (but not in it) and whisk the mixture with an up-and-down motion (to incorporate as much air as possible into the mixture) until the egg mixture is thick and pale yellow, or for about 10 minutes. Then put the cooking bowl in the ice-water bath, and whisk the sabayon vigorously again until it is cold.
Whip the cream and fold it into the sabayon. Cover and keep chilled for up to 4 days.
Savory sabayon sauce: this is the same sauce, served hot or cold, but with no sugar. It is made with shellfish or lobster essence in place of half the wine, and is used to sauce hot or cold fish dishes. One of my favorites is a sabayon made with mussel and shellfish essence, with a tablespoon of coarse cracked black or white pepper folded in at the last moment.
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