Strawberries in Old Burgundy

Method

On a wine tour though France in June of 1976, every meal ended with summer strawberries. I believe in gorging in the surfeit of the season, but after two weeks of those berries I started to dread the end of each meal.

We were at Paul Bocuse when, at the end of the meal, I was gazing again at the magnificent desserts, while waiting with dread for the inevitable berries. But when he spooned the strawberries into the big glass of what was left of my old La Tache, I sighed with relief and enjoyed strawberries all over again—so much, in fact, that had they been the wild ones, I think I would have passed out.

You can also use young wine with strawberries, adding a grinding of black pepper, and I prefer Zinfandel or Pinot Noir, although the other reds work too. If the wine is more than twenty years old, it is permissible to add a teaspoon of sugar.

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