I have spent many Christmases over the years in deepest South Devon. We often used to have goose instead of turkey because a lady at a nearby farm would fatten one up for us. A goose seems more traditional and old-fashioned than turkey and it usually has a stronger flavour. It’s a good change, anyway.

Just as with turkey, an interesting stuffing makes all the difference to the festive bird. If you have already decided to have turkey for Christmas, this stuffing would also do well for it. Remember to stuff the bird and get it ready for roasting the night before. Bread sauce, made with brown bread and added cream, is as good with goose as it is with turkey. To work out how many people a goose will feed, allow 350-450 g/12 oz-1 lb per person. Remember to keep the goose fat for roasting potatoes on a future occasion, if not used on Christmas Day.