In its savory form, saddle of venison (Rehrücken in German) is often threaded with long strips of lard to moisten the lean meat as it roasts. But to dessert lovers, Rehrücken is chocolate cake baked in a long, half-cylinder-shaped pan to resemble the roast saddle of venison. The trompe-l’oeil effect is completed by studs of slivered almonds, which are supposed to look like the lard strips sticking out of the meat. Rehrücken is always made with cake crumbs and almonds, never flour, and is gently spiced. If you have a stash of frozen crumbs in the freezer, use them, or buy unfrosted vanilla- or chocolate-flavored muffins to turn into crumbs.
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