Hungarian Chocolate Mousse Squares

Rigó Jancsi is Hungary’s national chocolate dessert, although Somlói Galuska would probably make a strong showing at the polls. Squares of cocoa mousse sandwiched between chocolate cake are covered with a shiny chocolate glaze. For years, like many other bakers, I used a recipe for mousse that was based on bittersweet chocolate. But when I discussed this dessert with Sandor Kovacs, head pastry chef at Budapest’s Gerbeaud, he said, “Whatever you do, remembe