Molded Rice Pudding with Raspberries

French cuisine has its regal rice pudding (riz à I’impératice), but the Austrians, never to be outdone by the French, have their Reis Trauttmans-dorff. A molded extravaganza of creamy rice and fresh berries (most recipes prefer raspberries, but fraises de bois or blueberries are also wonderful), it is truly a dish for the emperor’s table, and it was served often at the Hofburg palace.

There are a few tricks to making it well. First, use medium-grain