Sea trout is a fish without peer - and while also known as the salmon trout, it is genuinely a trout and not a salmon. It is related to the freshwater brown trout, but at some point exchanged the constricting habitat of the rivers for the open sea. Like the salmon, though, it returns to fresh water to spawn.

Its flesh is pink, but not as red as salmon. Like the lobster, it is so delicious it needs no fancy cooking no trappings, and is best served with the minimum of distractions. The fish is best poached whole and served cold with some sympathetic side dishes.

Mayonnaise and new potatoes go well with sea trout I also like it with tzatziki, the Middle-Eastern cucumber salad spiked with mint and a little garlic. I stress a small amount of garlic - too much and it would be disconcertingly vehement.