Apple, Prune and Zabaglione Tart

For many people the word zabaglione conjures up images of the kind of trattoria where the host greets you with ejecting teeth and overpowering bonhomie: ‘Signore, where-a you been for so long? I see you put on a bitt-a weight, but don’t worry, on you it looks good.’ You sit at your table (inevitably ‘the best in the house’, just next to the kitchen service doors) and grimly contemplate the cold antipasto - with its obligatory leaden aubergine - with growing forebodin