There is a Friulian saying, Vida in sasso, cugúmeri in téren grasso, which means “vines in stony soil, cucumbers in rich earth.” It expresses well the origins of this recipe. Boris Aita of Cormons makes fine Tocai and white blends, and his wife Rosi cooks dishes with foods from her garden that make the wines even more delicious. The cucumber sauce is not the fresh-tasting kind that goes with salmon but rather is a spicy, concentrated sauce that I use