Heat the oil and/or butter and optional pancetta in a wide 4-quart/4-l pot over medium-low heat. Add the onion and herbs and sauté for 1 minute, until the herbs are wilted. Move the herbs to the side of the pot and add the rice. Continue stirring so that the rice toasts. It should become opalescent after a couple of minutes.
Stir in the wine and cook, stirring, until the wine has evapor