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By Anthony Bourdain

Published 2004

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This is one of my very favorite things on earth. You don’t even really need a recipe, it’s so simple. What you do need is a pile of very fresh, very small whitebait or smelts. By small, I mean no more than 1½ inches long. The smaller and thinner, the better. Have your fish guy keep an eye out for them, and if and when available, pounce!