Boeuf à la Ficelle

This dish, literally “beef on a string,” doesn’t really need a string. (The string was traditionally used to lower the meat into the broth and then retrieve it.) It’s an easy, relatively light departure from the usual steak or roast—a more luxurious version of pot-au-feu—and it’s pretty as hell. It does well accompanied by horseradish or horseradish sauce. (Just make a béchamel sauce, and load it up with grated horseradish to taste.)