Method

As A. J. McClane says in The Encyclopedia of Fish Cookery, “To those of us who eat kingfish with any frequency, it’s infinitely superior when marinated in lime juice for a few hours, then cooked over charcoal and basted with a garlic butter or suitable sauce.” When the kings are running in summer, I save that garlic or chive butter for boiled new potatoes and dress the fish simply with tomatoes.

For each person, have a 1-inch steak weighing ½ to ¾ pound. For each steak you will need one or two limes for the marinade. Marinate the fish for 2 to 4 hours, turning them occasionally, then grill them several inches from the fire for 5 minutes on each side. I put the steaks in a wire grilling basket with halves of small sweet onions such as Wadmalaws or Vidalias painted with olive oil. For the tomato sauce, use 1 peeled, seeded, drained, and roughly chopped tomato for each person—splashed with a little lime juice, oil, and salt and pepper to taste. If you can’t get gloriously vine-ripened tomatoes, you may be better off using canned tomatoes.

Serve with green beans and new potatoes.

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