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As A. J. McClane says in The Encyclopedia of Fish Cookery, “To those of us who eat kingfish with any frequency, it’s infinitely superior when marinated in lime juice for a few hours, then cooked over charcoal and basted with a garlic butter or suitable sauce.” When the kings are running in summer, I save that garlic or chive butter for boiled new potatoes and dress the fish simply with tomatoes.

For each person, have a 1-inch steak weighing ½ to ¾ pound. For each steak you will need one or two limes for the marinade. Marinate the fish for 2 to 4 hours, turning them occasionally, then grill them several inches from the fire for 5 minutes on each side. I put the steaks in a wire grilling basket with halves of small sweet onions such as Wadmalaws or Vidalias painted with olive oil. For the tomato sauce, use 1 peeled, seeded, drained, and roughly chopped tomato for each person—splashed with a little lime juice, oil, and salt and pepper to taste. If you can’t get gloriously vine-ripened tomatoes, you may be better off using canned tomatoes.

Serve with green beans and new potatoes.