Smoked Haddock Gougère

You can make this dish with any fish (or ham or chicken), but I like it best with smoked haddock. We are great fish eaters in our family, and we are lucky enough to get really good fish from our fish merchant in Mallaig. His haddock is undyed – undyed smoked fish is well worth hunting out in preference to the garish, vivid yellow dyed smoked fish so widely marketed. Large stores are becoming aware of the harm the chemicals used in dyeing can do to us, and many now sell smoked undyed fish.</