The basis of this recipe was given to me by my friend Jemima who, with her husband Rupert, runs Borealis, the aroma-therapeutic cosmetic shop in Broadford. For many years they lived in Spain, and she was taught to cook fish like this by a Spanish friend in the hills above Granada. I have heard that aromatherapy massage should be conducted in silence – of this I am incapable, and Jemima and I natter on about food whenever I indulge myself in one of her brill