Le vieux coq de la ramaye

Coq au vin has become something of a cliché as well as a standby dish, and one that some people try to simplify to a basic level. Not so Madame Issaly, the mamie of the Domaine de la Ramaye at Gaillac, where the family make some of the finest wines of that region. This is not surprising when they have been brought up on the sumptuous cooking of the lady of the house. You will need perseverance to find an appropriate cockerel, and sufficient patience (three days) and stamina to