White radishes, called mooli in Urdu and Hindi, grow easily in temperate climates (in North America, they’re often known by their Japanese name, daikon). In summertime they have a hot taste; in winter they’re milder and sweeter.

We learned this pleasing approach to salad from our neighbors Amin and Zinet, whose standby it is. They are Ismaeli Muslims (followers of the Aga Khan) who grew up in East Africa, but their ancestors originally came f