Spiced Chai for Cold Mornings

One early December morning I headed out to explore the streets of Udaipur before sunrise. There was a chill in the air, and the sky was pale and clear, pearly and unwarmed. I went down a lane past the samosa stand I liked to stop at (see Fennel-Flecked Potato Samosas) and said a hello to Mohan as I walked by. “You look like you need warming up,” he said. “Have a spiced tea.”

It was a good offer. The tea was quickly made, and then I stood clasping t