Maiale Tonnato

One is always learning, sometimes in unexpected ways. Some years ago, at a trattoria in the country, near Bologna, I called the owner over and berated him: “How dare you serve this as vitello tonnato!” I exclaimed. “It isn’t veal, it’s pork!” “Of course,” he coolly replied. “I always make it with pork—it’s tastier.” I pointed out at the time that the fact that pork is also considerably cheaper must have entered his consciousness, although the questionable integrity of selling