Pesce da Taglio col Sugo di Vongole

The Italian dishes that most resist adaptation to another country’s ingredients are those with seafood. The fish of the Atlantic or Pacific do not taste like those of the Adriatic, Tyrrhenian, or Ligurian Sea. In most of the recipes in this section, I have relied on the preparation to express Italian flavor, letting the fish taste as it must. This recipe is the result of a different approach.

I set out to produce, with what I could find in my neighborhood New York market, a dish whe