There is not a way of preparing chicken I don’t like, even simply boiling it, but there are times I have a yen for a particular consistency, a special fragrance. This recipe is one I use when I want a savory roast chicken that is not just tender but moist, with marked aromatic character. The key flavor ingredients, which go into the cavity, are rosemary and sage, chopped lemon peel, and pancetta. In the first stage of cooking, the bird is baked, wrapped in foil, in a medium oven, favoring the secretion and accumulation of tasty juices. In the second stage, the foil is removed, the oven temperature raised, and the chicken finishes roasting basted in its juices. One practical aspect of the recipe is that it requires only occasional attention, leaving one free to put together the rest of the dinner.