Here is a recipe my son, Giuliano, improvised on one of his visits home. The first dish he had ever cooked was at age eleven, when he decided to produce lasagne for twenty of his classmates. After that startling but successful debut, as he grew older I would let him tinker in the kitchen on those not rare occasions when he felt like cooking and I did not. The will to eat well and, necessarily, cheaply during college and the succeeding bachelor years served only to sp