While I was working on the recipe, I was moved to develop another, more exuberant version, adding olives, other vegetables, pancetta affumicata—bacon—and omitting the cream. It is curiously suggestive of a Chinese dish, yet it is accomplished through procedures that are unmistakably Italian. It further confirms my long-held belief that, of all other cuisines, the one the spirit of Italian cooking has most in common with is the Chinese.
© 1986 Marcella Hazan estate. All rights reserved.