Sfogi in saor inspired me to apply the same method to thin slices of pork. Venetians I have sprung this on have confirmed what I had hoped, that although it is an improvisation, it tastes as though it had always been part of their city’s cooking. To the basic saor marinade I have added a little balsamic vinegar, whose sweet-and-sour taste goes so well with pork.
Unlike the sfogi, the pork is ready to eat the moment it is done, while it is still warm, and thus takes its place in the repertory of pork second courses. Like the sfogi, however, it develops deeper flavor the longer it steeps in the marinade, thus becoming a perfect dish to prepare long in advance and to serve, without reheating, at room temperature.
© 1986 Marcella Hazan estate. All rights reserved.