Of the extraordinary variety of fresh ingredients that have begun to appear on American markets, none is more wonderful than boletus edulis, the wild mushrooms that Italians call porcini Some are native to American woods— I have had porcini from California, Washington state, Georgia, Vermont; some are imported from Italy. A warning: Do not pick mushrooms in the woods on your own until you have learned to distinguish clearly the edulis, which means edible, species from the poisonous; buy them only from a knowledgeable vendor.

No fresh mushroom, and no other wild mushroom, morels and chanterelles included, remotely approaches the bosky flavor and satin texture of porcini. And no cooking method liberates so much of that flavor as grilling or sautéing with olive oil and garlic. Whether on the grill or in the skillet, porcini must cook slowly until tender throughout. High heat stuns the flavor and withers the texture. Good olive oil is indispensable. Butter is the doom of porcini: You might as well be cooking champignons if you are going to cook them in butter.

In the recipe you will find chestnut leaves listed as an optional ingredient. I don’t know if they are ever found in America. But if you should be cooking in Europe, try them. It is the Genoese way of doing it, and it enhances the mushrooms with an aroma most congenial.