If one judges chocolate ice cream by how sumptuously concentrated, how close to chocolate essence it is, the one made by the Cipriani Hotel in Venice must take an absolute first place. When Franco, the pastry chef, at last released his recipe to me, I discovered the secret: deep brown caramelized sugar added to the cocoa and bittersweet chocolate to intensify both color and flavor. To obtain a suitably dark caramel, it may be helpful to read the note on cro